Things To Do in Bermagui

Shhhh, don’t tell anyone but I think I have found Nirvana, and it’s in southern New South Wales! It’s a little place called Bermagui, a small coastal town tucked away off the highway on northern edge of the Sapphire Coast.  The township and region offer a perfect blend of relaxation, adventure, and natural beauty. There's a million things to do in Bermagui, so lets explore some of them.

Bermy, as it’s commonly known, has it all on offer. The name Sapphire Coast perfectly describes the magnificent deep blues of the Pacific Ocean in a melting pot where the warm East Australian Current (EAC) meets the chilling profusion of the Southern Ocean, providing an abundant marine wonderland. The abyss of the Continental Shelf lies only 19km (around 12 miles) seaward of Bermagui, and the world-famous diving destination of Montague Island is only 22km northward, creating a nautical wonderland for seafarers of all descriptions.

The township is just 280 km southeast of Canberra, 400 km south of Sydney, and 680 km northeast from Melbourne, making it quite a trek from any large CBD. This keeps much of the activity at a fairly low pace. To the north is the popular sea and lakeside destination of Narooma, and to the south are the beautiful Mogareeka and Tathra. Many tourists never find Bermagui, as you must leave the Princess Highway to take the coastal roads.

Bermagui was put on the map in the 1830s by establishing the jetty in Horseshoe Bay. The jetty serviced coastal trade, local forestry, fisheries, dairy farming industries, and some limited whaling and tuna poling.

While the professional fishing activity has diminished, the recreational effort is still very active, bringing many tourists into the region. However, there are many other reasons to visit the well-equipped coastal village.

Bermagui has expanded both north and south of the river as well as a large hinterland population. The main headlands that border Horseshoe Bay overlook the inviting ocean beaches as they extend northward to Gulaga (Mt Dromedary), Montague Island, and nearby Wallaga Lake. Despite its growing population, Bermagui retains its roots and “fishing village” DNA. 

A smaller headland protects the river mouth, which features a well-protected northerly access through a deep-water entrance. Hence, the harbour was eventually constructed inside the river mouth, with a groin protecting the port to the northeast. Whilst the harbour facilities and Fisherman's Co-Op still service some professional fishing activities, they are minor compared to the industry of yesteryear.

The inviting white sandy beaches and craggy headlands make way to the hinterland of the Great Dividing Range with Gulaga, the Mother Mountain, timelessly overseeing dense forests and lush pastures intertwined with a series of sublime lakes, estuaries, and rivers.

Nautical Delights

The American author and traveling big game fisherman Zane Grey made the township famous in the 1930’s. He discovered the abundant pelagic fishery with marlin, kingfish, tuna, and sharks, all available in reasonable proximity for recreational craft. His book “An American Angler in Australia " set the stage for international recognition. In fact, for many years, Bermagui was referred to as the Centre of Game Fishing in Australia.

Grey undoubtedly witnessed the spectacle of the annual whale migration, with its recovered population after suffering a worldwide setback from overfishing. The huge mammals often frolic and breech right in front of the township in the beautiful Horseshoe Bay. Bermagui’s headlands provide ideal whale-watching platforms, and Sapphire Coastal Adventures runs professional whale-watching cruises if you want to get up close and personal.

The game fishing can be simply sensational. I have personally experienced up to eight marlin encounters in a day. Now that’s exciting! You may see striped, blue, and black marlin all on the same grounds. There’s yellowfin, striped, and southern bluefin tuna, yellowtail kingfish, albacore, mahi mahi, bonito, all manner of sharks, and some not-so-common visitors, such as short-billed spearfish, all visiting the prolific oceans.

Deep dropping is proving successful, with many fishos enjoying blue eye, hapuka, gemfish, ling, and many other deep-water ooglies, including a few specialising in broadbill swordfish.

Besides the game fishing, the bottom bashing is terrific with a mixed bag of available species from snapper, flathead, morwong, squid, garfish and many other favorites. The yellowtail kingfish at Montague Island are legendary but can be difficult with plenty of juvenile fish and the marauding local seal population.

For those who prefer their nautical adventures to be a little more sedate, there are plenty of waterways for boating, fishing, tow sports, sailing, and small watercraft. The Bermagui River flows through the township, with two multi-lane boat ramps and a protected harbour with moorings and services, including fuel, slips, gantry, and shipwrights. Northeasterly winds are quite common, especially during the popular summer holidays, and they can sometimes play havoc. The Bermagui Coastal Patrol monitors marine VHF constantly and has rescue craft and crew in Bermagui and nearby Narooma.

Nearby waterways include Wallaga, Corrunna, Baragoot, Wapengo and Cuttagee Lakes in close proximity. There’s the beautiful Tanja, Murrah and Nelson Lagoon, the very popular Wagonga Inlet nearby at Narooma, the Bega River at Mogareeka (near Tathra) to the south, and even a freshwater delight in the mountains with the Brogo Dam. Should you wish to visit the beautiful Tuross Lake and River, it's only a short drive northward with the Moruya Heads and River, plus Batemans Bay and its Clyde River, Eden, and Merimbula, all within easy driving distance of less than 1.5 hours. All of the larger waterways are well-serviced, with reasonable boat ramps and facilities.

The rivers and estuaries provide wonderful sweetwater adventures and terrific fishing for flathead, bream, luderick, garfish, trevally, whiting, mulloway snapper, salmon, tailor, luderick and many others, like octopi, prawns and crabs.

A small tinny, kayak or canoe is really all you need, but if you don’t have a boat don’t despair as there’s plenty of land-based options. The Bermagui River is a ripper with options from the breakwall entrance, the harbour and surrounding structure, piers and jetties, and plenty of sandy drop-offs.

Plus, the surf and rock fishing are sensational, with seemingly endless gutters and easy access to a variety of species, including salmon, tailor, bream, whiting, mulloway, gummy sharks, drummer, and squid.

You just must stop in at Bermagui Bait and Tackle, where you will not only find a well-stocked range of bait and fishing gear but also terrific advice from local anglers. While you’re there, you can get fuel and a great takeaway meal to keep you content on that fishing excursion.  They also do bookings for charter fishing, plus there are plenty of other boats to take you to sea and have a great chance of success. There are also dive charters and two other estuary charter fishing boats in the area.

The diving in the region is terrific, with wonderful reefs surrounding almost every headland. But the jewel in the crown is Montague Island, which is also home to a large seal colony. These playful creatures will keep you entertained with their friendly underwater talents.

Beached as Baby

The coastline features some of Australia’s most beautiful beaches. You can choose from the popular patrolled surf beach in Horseshoe Bay or perhaps discover your own little piece of paradise for a more solitary experience. The large, enclosed rock pool formation of the “Bermagui Blue Pool” is a favourite swimming hole for all ages if you can traverse the staircase down the cliff. If the stairs are too challenging, you may prefer the Bruce Steer swimming hole in a river offshoot right next to the Bermagui boat ramp. It’s a great place for swimming and introducing kids to snorkeling. You will be amazed at the marine diversity in this safe and comfortable swimming hole!

Surfers flock to the miles of beach breaks, and there’s a few good point breaks nearby. I’ve even seen tow-ins at the Narooma and Merimbula Bars when the swell gets big.

Canoes, kayaks, wind, and kite surfing SUPs are very popular, but not so many PWCs are destroying the peace. There are a few around, but many venture offshore fishing. Water skiers and other tow sports generally head northward to Corunna Lake.

The Feathered Flocks

Bermagui is an absolute Mecca for bird watchers, sometimes called "twitchers!" Some species actually travel all the way from Siberia and Asia to feed and breed in the idyllic coast, forests and foothills of the Sapphire Coast. Many other species simply thrive in the abundance of the natural environment.

I recently described an afternoon fishing trip with, "There were graceful swans feeding on the abundance of sea grass, enchanting sea eagles soaring the thermals while swallows wind-surfed the dunes. Noisy gulls, black cockatoo’s and plovers filled the air with their shrill cries, oyster catchers searched the stones plus kingfishers, ospreys, curlew and terns. Parrots, honey eaters, and wattlebirds foraged the lakeside banksias and a magnificent pure white goshawk swooped the local homing pigeon population."

Many holidaymakers travel long distances for their own experience in paradise, and the same is true for many migrating birds. Red-necked stints are the smallest of the migrating birds. These tiny little cuties are often described as small enough to fit into a wineglass, yet many will fly a distance equivalent between the earth and the moon in their limited lifetimes. Eastern curlew, bar-tailed godwits, sanderlings, and red knots all travel from their breeding grounds in the Arctic Circle and Siberia to roost on our popular shoreline.

The endangered hooded plovers nest in simple scratchings above the high tide mark on our sandy beaches, while predators such as snakes, lizards, feral foxes, and cats lurk in coastal vegetation. But beware, many of these endangered species share ocean beaches with people who have no idea of their environment and some who simply don’t care! If they fly away, then you're too close!

The Mountains

There’s gold in them there hills!

Bermagui is most certainly a favoured destination for seafarers and water sports. Yet its hinterlands, which lead to the mountains and forests of the Great Dividing Range, hold magnetic allure for 4WD enthusiasts, horse riding, trail and mountain bikes, gold exploration, or bushwalking whilst taking in the elevated views and winding river valleys leading out to the Eden/Monaro region.

Coastal walks and mountain trails take you through various landscapes, including forests, river valleys, heathlands, and coastal cliffs. If you are feeling fit, then take the Gulaga Mountain Walk, a steep track that was said to be originally forged by gold miners back in 1894. However, I’m sure the local Yuin people, who hold the “Mother Mountain” sacred, had explored the mountain well before that time. You will see amazing panoramas and explore thick rainforests, gentle creeks, and giant granite tors at “The Saddle.”   The total length to the summit and back is 14 km return and around 5 hours return. (If you’re fit!)

National Parks and reserves, including the Gulaga, Biamanga, and Mimosa Rocks National Parks surround Bermagui. These parks provide wonderful camping options and attractions, including waterfalls, crystal-clear creeks, deep natural forests, and magnificent beaches often studded with stunning granite rock formations.

Mystery Bay to the north of Bermagui and Mimosa Rocks to the south offer coastal camping at its best but they both get very busy in peak periods so be sure to book ahead.

If you choose for a more defined “holiday park” experience, Reflections (formally Zane Grey Caravan Park) offers some of the best real estate set right on the headland in the Bermagui township.  Wallaga Lake is a mere 9 kilometres northward of the township, where you will find the large Big 4, Regatta Point, and Ingenia Holiday Parks, offering magnificent campsites and on-site cabins set on the stunning lakefront and complete with their own boat ramps and full amenities. The Big 4 even hosts the recently re-opened Camel Rock Brewery for a feed and a drink!

If you’re not camping you can hire a cottage or spoil yourself rotten in luxury accommodation.  There are plenty of units, motels, farm stays, BnB, and holiday houses available, offering a broad range of styles and prices. We often see the same people coming back to the same accommodation for decades.

Tilba and Cobargo

No review of Bermagui is complete without mentioning the quaint, historic communities of Cobargo, Tilba Tilba and Central Tilba.

Cobargo is a wonderful little township just 20km west of Bermagui, offering a splendid blend of traditional and cottage craft community set amongst lush pastoral, farming, forest, and the mountainous backdrop of the Great Dividing Range. It is still rebuilding in some areas after being hit hard in the horrific fires of December 2019; however, it has plenty on offer, including rural co-op, bakery, food shops and stalls, traditional butchery, and more, including a terrific pub offering cold beer and good meals.

Both Tilba Tilba and Central Tilba are a similar distance from Bermagui but set in the foothills at the base of the mystic Gulaga. These two historic villages offer some of the best craft, nursery, food and local handicrafts in NSW, including a traditional lolly shop and the Tilba dairy, famous for its milk and cheeses. The Dromedary Hotel in Central Tilba was built in 1895 and is a bucket list item that offers wonderful regional brews and delicious meals and regularly provides local and visiting entertainment. If you can’t get a smile and some cheery conversation with the colorful locals at Tilba, you had best look at your traveling attitude!

Just a bit further northbound and set on the shores of Lake Corunna is the Tilba Winery and Ale House where you can enjoy lunch in the rustic setting, nestled amongst the gum trees – or perhaps experience one of the concerts featuring both local and more well-known performers. (PS – the chef is a mate of mine and highly recommended! LOL)

Local Delights

Bermagui caters quite well to discerning tastes but be warned the township often closes early so don’t expect too many late-night munchies. The eateries include the Blue Wave fish and chips, Harbar, il Passagio and The Sun Deck located at the marina on the harbours edge.

There’s Octopii, Mimosa Wines and Restaurant, River Rock Café, Eurolicious, Boneless (vegetarian), the Beachside Café, as well as both Nutley’s Creek and Bermagui Pizza, Bodega Mexican, Honor Bread, Mr Hope, the Gelati clinic, and a range of mobile and pop-up style café including Nancy’s at the Bermagui Country Club. The Club itself has a large Terrace Restaurant as well as full bar facilities, a beer garden, a playground, and sporting amenities such as the magnificent 18-hole golf course, tennis courts, and a bowling green.

And of course, there’s the pub, namely the Bermagui Beach Hotel, where you can enjoy a meal on the balcony while watching whales, dolphins, the fishing fleet, or maybe just sunset over the mountains while enjoying a full menu.

The south coast is famous for its tasty oysters, which are some of the country's best. You can buy unopened oysters directly from the farmers at Wapengo Lake, or a number of outlets, including Bermagui Bait and Tackle. While you are there, grab a delicious gourmet roll, one of Wild Ryes (Pambula) ripper pies/pasties, and sausage rolls while you shop their bait and tackle, sports clothing, boat parts, and, of course, the fishing and diving gear.

There are any number of popular events, including the Cobargo Rodeo, Tilba Easter Parade, the Bermagui dog show, charity motorcycle rides, growers markets, car boot sales, visiting circuses and fairs, art and sculpture exhibitions, fishing competitions, and much more.

Services include Woolworths supermarket, Mitre 10 hardware, 3 service stations, Bermagui Fresh Food Emporium (including butchers), Lake Road Pantry, doctors, a vet, yoga classes, and a full range of mechanical, landscape, and professional services in the nearby industrial area.

The harbour is the hub of the town, where you can sit down for a meal or perhaps take a stroll while watching the boats come and go day and night.

The Wrap

Bermagui is a hidden gem on the NSW South Coast, offering a unique blend of natural beauty, outdoor adventure, and cultural attractions.  Whether you're looking for a romantic getaway, a family vacation, or an action-packed adventure, Bermagui has something for everyone.

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